Quik-Cure 5min Epoxy 4.5 oz (BSI201)
If CAs are the cure-all for just about all
bonding problems, you may be wondering, "Why do I need epoxy?" One primary
reason is price. Epoxy costs are about one fourth that of CA. When large objects
are being bonded, economics can be a deciding factor on choice of adhesive. The
specific characteristics of epoxies also give them advantages in some
applications. All our epoxies are mixed with a 50-50 ratio. Any scrap material
or paper scratch pad can be used as a mixing surface. We have found, however,
that the plastic tops to coffee cans work best due to their outer border and
their flexibility, which allows the unused cured epoxy to be released and thrown
away.
Squeeze out equal length beads of the desired amount of epoxy, then mix together
thoroughly with a popsicle stick or scrap piece of material. In cold weather,
epoxy takes longer to cure (too cold and usually they never fully cure) and
becomes more difficult to get out of the bottle, especially if it’s less than
1/2 full. The epoxies can be heated in a microwave oven for about 10 seconds so
that they flow easier. The heating process, with the caps off, also releases any
moisture that can be absorbed by epoxies. Their shelf life, therefore, is
virtually unlimited.
Acetone works as the best solvent for cleaning epoxy from brushes and unwanted
surfaces before it cures. If epoxy gets on surfaces that acetone will attack,
use isopropyl alcohol. We do not recommend any additives for thinning epoxies
due to their effect on curing and overall strength. If thin epoxy is required,
either use heat or switch to EX-SLOW or FINISH-CURE. Epoxies bond best to clean,
textured surfaces. Smooth, non-porous surfaces should be roughened with coarse
sandpaper to improve adhesion.
A small amount of CA can be used in strategic locations to hold parts in place
while the epoxies cure. The minute designations for epoxies refer to the working
time, i.e., the time one has before the epoxies begin to set up after being
mixed in a large mass. When spread into thinner layers, the working time in
increased significantly (except QUIK-CURE). Working time decreases approximately
25% at temperatures above 90 degrees F. Don’t panic if your skin comes in
contact with either epoxy or CA.
While contact should be avoided, uncured epoxy can be washed from your skin with
soap and water. Allergic reactions are rare. Cured epoxy and CA can be peeled
off the skin and usually are gone after a full day of normal activity. UN-CURE
will debond any body parts that get stuck together if a peeling action (never
pulling) doesn’t part them.
QUIK-CURE 5 min. epoxy cures to a slightly
flexible consistency. This lack of brittleness allows it to form a lasting bond
in areas subjected to high vibration or stress. QUIK-CURE shouldn’t be used in
areas that are subject to long-term immersion in water; however, it works fine
for the internal structure of wood framed boats. QUIKCURE is our only epoxy on
which you can apply polyester resins. It can be mixed with microballoons to form
a quick setting putty. Items bonded with QUIK-CURE can be handled after 15
minutes. Full strength is reached in 1 hour.
MID-CURE 15 min. epoxy is used in larger areas where more working time is
needed. It is more water resistant and can be used as a substitute for QUIK-CURE
in most applications. MID-CURE is our most flexible epoxy and is ideal for
gluing to fiberglass surfaces. Allow 45 minutes before handling parts and 2
hours for full strength.
SLOW-CURE 30 min. epoxy works best for forming reinforcing fillets on joints. It
has the highest strength of our epoxies. It is waterproof and more heat
resistant. SLOW-CURE can be used for bonding if you’re willing to wait
overnight. Fillers such as microballoons can be mixed with SLOW-CURE and
FINISH-CURE to form a putty-like consistency. Such fillers will usually decrease
the working time by about 25%. Bonded objects can be handled after 8 hours and
the cured epoxy reaches full strength within 24 hours.
FINISH-CURE 20 min. epoxy is an excellent, low odor substitute for polyester
resins. It can be used for applying fiberglass cloth to wood or by itself to
give wood a surface ready for primer and paint. FINISH-CURE can be sanded the
easiest of all our epoxies and is excellent for the sheeting of foam core wings.
Allow 8 hours for full curing. For best results, FINISH-CURE should be heated to
a temperature above 85 degrees F or applying light weight fiberglass, lay cloth
on balsa first, then brush on FINISH-CURE. When fully saturated, go over the
surface with a heat gun, and then squeegee off excess epoxy with a playing card
from an old deck. Heat and remove excess several times for a light weight
finish. If room temperature is below 70 degrees F use a heat gun on the surface
several times for the next 2 hours. When dry, lightly sand, then fill surface
with a low weight spakeling compound, scrapping off excess with a playing card.
Sand to a smooth finish ready for primer. For heavy weight fiberglass, apply the
epoxy before and after laying down the cloth. FINISH-CURE is best mixed in a
disposable cup.
Model: | BSI201 |
Manufacturer: | BSI |